Three Days in Birmingham: Civil Rights & Southern Soul
- 6 hours ago
- 5 min read
Welcome back, travel famiillyy. I hope you read that in the thickest Southern accent imaginable. HA!!
I’m back from my birthday trip, and oh my — I have so much to share with you. I received guesses from Louisiana to Memphis to, “Girl, I’m trying to guess your riddle.” One traveler nailed it…but she used to live there, so I’m calling that suspicious. And if you answered Alabama? Pass GO — but no $200 for you. HAHA!!
For this short but meaningful getaway, I spent three days in Birmingham, also known as, “The Magic City,” absorbing the culture, history, and some serious Southern soul. I also made a quick stop in Montgomery, but Birmingham was truly the heart of this journey.
And let me tell you — my travel friend, Sam, made her presence known by driving up just to hang out and participate in my SHE-NAN-AGAINS. I think everyone needs a friend like this. The kind who doesn’t ask questions, just says, “What time do I need to be there?”
The Magic City
In the years following the Civil War—during what was known as the Reconstruction Era—people were searching for opportunity, stability, and growth. Founded in 1871, Birmingham was strategically built near rich deposits of iron ore, coal, and limestone—the key ingredients for steel production.
Because of its rapid industrial expansion, it quickly earned the nickname “The Magic City.” In fact, due to its exponential growth in steel production, Birmingham was often referred to as the “Pittsburgh of the South.”
The Magic City may have been built on steel, but its legacy was forged in courage. In Birmingham, history didn’t just happen — it was challenged, confronted, and changed. To gain a better perspective, we took a guided tour and visited museums that unpacked the city’s tumultuous past and pivotal points.
The BCRI is part of the Civil Rights National Monument and is affiliated with the Smithsonian Institution. One of the things that I appreciated most was that the experience begins with a short introductory video. It thoughtfully sets the tone, providing context before you walk through the realities of segregation and conflict.
Before visiting, I had never heard of Fred Shuttlesworth — a pastor and one of Birmingham’s most prominent Civil Rights leaders. I’m still amazed at how much history there is to uncover and how many names we weren’t taught growing up.
Outside stands a statue of Shuttlesworth, strategically facing Kelly Ingram Park. The museum is located directly across from the 16th Street Baptist Church, infamously known for the 1963 Sunday bombing that took the lives of four young girls between the ages of 11 and 14.
If you’re a history lover, expect to spend around two hours in here reading, reflecting and taking in the exhibits. It’s not just informative — it’s deeply moving.
After sitting with the weight of the Birmingham Civil Rights Institute and 16th Street Baptist Church, we pivoted a bit and stepped into another powerful — yet celebratory — part of the city’s story: baseball.
I’m not going to lie — with my limited sports knowledge, Birmingham and baseball would’ve never crossed my mind. But the city was actually a powerhouse during a time when the sport wasn’t integrated.
Did you know that there were separate Black Baseball leagues during segregation? Most people have heard of the Negro Leagues, but there was also the Negro Southern League — and Birmingham played a significant role in that history.
And here’s something that really stood out to me: women like Toni Stone, Mamie “Peanut” Johnson, and Connie Morgan carved out their own lane within the Negro Leagues. At a time when both race and gender created barriers, they still found ways to compete, lead, and leave their mark on the game.
After a full-on graduate-level history course in a matter of hours, we shifted our focus to what really matters — food. HA!
Hoping to practice some Spanish and try something authentic, we drove about 20 minutes outside of Birmingham to a small local spot called La Juanita. It DID NOT disappoint. The fresh condiments stole the show — especially the spicy pickled habanero purple onions. I low-key wanted to stash a container in my carry-on. Don’t judge me!!
Let’s just say…the waitress saw us again the next day. 😂
Full, feliz, and still thinking about those habanero onions, we continued our journey — this time heading to Montgomery for another deeply impactful experience.
Pickled habanero red onions
The Legacy Museum traced the story from enslavement to mass incarceration, connecting centuries of history in one powerful, immersive space.
Unlike traditional museums, this experience is layered and interactive. You don’t just read about history — you feel the progression of it. Each room and exhibit challenges you to confront the systems that shaped the South and continue to shape America today. It’s not light. It’s not surface-level.
The museum is part of three Legacy sites created by the Equal Justice Initiative. Unfortunately, we were only able to intentionally visit two without rushing. If you’re planning to visit the museum and its sites, set aside an entire day — this is not something you want to move through quickly.
Before heading back to Birmingham, we made a quick stop to admire a mural of Nat King Cole and visit the site of the now infamous 2023 Montgomery riverfront brawl.
Yes, Auntie was being petty. HAHA.
And somehow...we eventually found our way back to La Juanita.
After a couple of days immersed in museums, we decided to slow down and take a guided tour with Red Clay Tours. This was more than a Civil Rights tour — it was a shared, moving experience as we visited sites where some of Birmingham’s most infamous bombings occurred.
Our guide Clay was like a walking historian and storyteller — honestly, Alabama’s living encyclopedia. I loved how candid and engaging he was, never shying away from the hard questions. At each stop, he connected the past to the present in ways that made us think, reflect, and really feel the weight of history.
Between museums, tours, and absorbing Birmingham’s heavy history, Sam and I needed a moment to let loose. So naturally…we made a beeline for the Birmingham Rage Room.
Just imagine an adult temper tantrum in a safe space — no cleanup, no paying for broken items. WIN-WIN. Surprisingly, the sound of shattering glass and a pile of broken dishes felt strange but therapeutic. Unfortunately, Auntie’s medical insurance doesn’t cover this type of therapy, but it should. LOL.
Honestly, I couldn’t think of a more perfect way to release tension and reset after days of intense history.
Before leaving, we spotted a massive mural of Birmingham’s very own Batman outside Magnolia Point, a local restaurant. Yes … we ate there. 🤭
What I thought was just cool street art turned out to tell a true story — a local man who wore a cape, drove a souped-up 1971 Ford Thunderbird, and spread joy throughout his community by helping others in need.
It felt like the perfect way to wrap up our time in Birmingham — a reminder that even in a city shaped by hard history, there’s still room for compassion, kindness, and everyday heroes.
This trip was layered — powerful history, meaningful conversations, local eats, and moments of unexpected wonder. I tried to pack as much of this trip into one post as possible, but trust me… there’s always more. I’m no encyclopedia — just a curious traveler with a 😄few good notes.
👀 Drop your questions in the chat — let’s talk!
Until next time, adventurers — stay curious, stay open-minded, and remember … Auntie says explore like nobody’s watching, taste all the local eats, and never skip the SHE-NAN-AGAINS.🌟
Sounds and looks like an amazing trip!! I'm glad you enjoyed yourself and shared your adventures with us!!